Wednesday, February 06, 2013

Draft your own Skirt Tutorial Revisited!

Hello friends,

This blog post have made it first appearance in the blog in June 2011 but my poor computer skills had let it down. (I'm still learning) Since a lot of us are enjoying drafting our own patterns, I wanted to share this post revisited specially for Sew Grateful Resources. Having a skirt that fit perfectly & that can be altered easily it's a great resource for all level of sewists. 

Measure Yourself.

You may think it's not necessary to update your measurements often however I really advice you doing it so. Our bodies are constantly changing. Our routines, diet, posture, etc all affect the body shape long term. My personal preference it's the measure your -Bust,Waist, Hips- before every project and the rest of the measurements every 3 months.


These instructions are based on your personal measurements and the way the measurements needed to be taken must be accurate. Getting it right first time, you won’t have any fitting issues and can use this pattern as base of other types of skirts.  This block has NO seam allowance.
This instructions were made using metric system. Can be converted to imperial.

Measurements you will need for this pattern are:

Waist (divided by 4 – we will refer as 4W)
Hips (divided by 4- Refer as 4H)
CDA: Distance between your waist and your hips.
CS: Measure from your waist until the size would like your skirt to be in cm.

Materials:

Use pattern paper, spot and cross or any other paper that have a large enough because you will draw both side of the pattern (front/ back) at the same time.
Pencil and eraser
Long ruler & french curve.
Tape measure

Drafting in 4 easy steps.
Step 01:

Create a horizontal and vertical line 3 cm from the edge of the paper – they are your margins.
Make a rectangle for front/ back with measurement 4H(horizontal margin) and desired skirt length.( vertical margin).

Step 02:

Measure and mark a doted line on the vertical margin marking your CDA. This is your hip line. I find having it on a pattern its helpful for later alterations.
To create the waist, in the same horizontal line, mark the distance of your 4W + 3 cm. If you don't want to add darts to your skirts, omit the 3 cm.
Lower 1,5 cm in the junction of horizontal margin and vertical and create a dot.

Step 03:

On your waistline, connect those dots in a curve shape (you can use the French curve or flexible ruler) at front and back pattern.
Only if you are adding a dart: Measure your waistline (4W+3 )and mark a dot to mark the middle. That will be the dart axe.  Draw a line down with length is 10 cm front and 12 cm back. Measure 1 cm from each side of the axis and connect to the line forming the dart.

Step 04:

At the side seam, at the point of your waist connect to the CDA in a curved shape ( I used a curved rule)

Done!Taper the sides to make it from straight to pencil.

Please remember to add your seam allowance and fitting insurance.  I like cutting my fabric with an extra 3 cm so I can overlock the excess (1,5 cm) and the inside looks really neat. 
The line of the pattern is your stitching line. 

Preserve your pattern by fusing the paper on fusible interface.

Enjoy.... Happy drafting!

13 comments:

  1. This is such a great tutorial. I hadn't really thought about our bodies constantly changing (for better or worse!) but it makes sense to update measurements regularly. Thanks!
    Louise

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  2. Great tutorial on drafting! I've been wanting to try drafting my own pattern for a while--maybe this will be my first!

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  3. Hi there, this is a much easier way to draft a skirt than we learned in class. I think I might try this way and see which fits better. Thanks for posting.

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    1. I tried to simplify as much as possible. Works quite well so I hope you enjoy making it x

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  4. I haven't tried drafting before.. but may have to now :)
    Thanks

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  5. And I'm about to start drafting from scratch this month. Thank you for putting up this tute.

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  6. I've been guilting of using old measurements and then finding (to my delight) I'd shrunk. Years of having babies means lots of changing measurements!!!

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  7. Thanks so much for the tutorial.

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  8. thanks this is great!

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  9. Amazing ! This is cool!

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