Sunday, February 16, 2014

Behind the seams of Project sewn: Welt and flat felt seams and a few answers about the coat.

Hi darlings,

First of all I really want to THANK U for the love on the pink wrap coat aka Da Bomb. Wow, I cannot believe some many of you voted for me and the amazing feedback. The pattern is very easy and I recommend for beginners. Follow my tips of seams on this post for a professional look.  

The secret is picking a fabric that has the same finish on both the right and wrong side, and holds a certain weight. Mine was bought locally and I keep scouting for more as I'm planning a few more.  Being a heavy weight fabric , the right needle (jeans) and walking foot are essential. To avoid jamming the start, level behind the presser feet with a bit of fabric folded so it doesn't have a "hill to climb".

The pattern tells you to fold the seams up, finishing with mitred corners. It's an 'ok' way to do it but wrong with my choice of fabric (too bulky). I opted for binding with bias. The side pocket just hangs loose. The fabric doesn't fray so no special treatment besides trimming and reinforcing the seams. I have used this coat a lot and can attest the pocket bags doesn't show when wearing it open unless you really flash the coat. Hello boys! lol!


Let's talk seams:
Flat felt is normally used on jeans. It adds a decorative finish to the coat collar seam.
You can easily identify because the distinctive double row of stitches on the right side. Besides jeans, you can use on garments you plan to be reversible.

 With wrong sides together, sew a straight seam, opining your seam allowance. Trim one side of the seam. Turn under the other seam allowance and fold over the trimmed side. Baste in place and stitch through all the layers close to the fold.

Welt seams looks like a topstitched seam, perfect for fabrics that doest fray and work so feel with bulk fabrics like my wool felt.

Sew a straight seam, open it and trim one side of the seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open to one side to hide the trimmed edge. Sew through the top fabric fabric enclosing the trimmed edge in. You will see on the right side a line like a topstitched seam.

I really want to write to everyone that comment on my last post but didn't managed yet. Sorry I been so quiet. I been working extra hard for Week 3 of project sewn … let's just say that this happened in the process…



14 comments:

  1. Lol, poor old seam ripper! I cannot wait to see your week 3 project - Week 2 was an absolute and total stunner!!! <3 You are quite simply a genius. I have to get more adventurous with colours and fabrics, I was thinking earlier today just how 'blue' my Kollabora page is....!!! x

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    1. just seen you latest archer.. its so lovely. Its fun to try new things but its better to spend the time and effort on a wardrobe you will wear.

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  2. Love your bright pink coat Rachel, glad that you persevered and it came out great in the end! Thanks for all the info on the construction of it.

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    1. Thanks darling. Hope you like next week project

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  3. Congrats on your win, and good luck for the next challenge. A striking coat you have there.
    Sassy Sewing Bees https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees ❀

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  4. Really lovely! How exciting to win AND have a fantastic outfit and coat in your wardrobe now!

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  5. Fantastic outfit! Thanks for the seam finishing tips and good luck next week!

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  6. Oh no! A broken seam ripper cannot be good!! Your coat and entire outfit is lovely. So much so I almost didn't look at the others before voting. I did but still liked yours the best - it was the complete package of sewing, style and modeling. Best of luck for next week x

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  7. Oh that broken seam ripper says so much about your hard work! RIP seam ripper.

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  8. You are a gun mate :) loving your work

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  9. Rachel, I love your pretty coat! The color is beautiful and cheerful. Thanks too for the tip on seams :)

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  10. the colour makes my heart sing { LOUD }....gorgeous.

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  11. Beautiful coat.. and Congrats on the win..

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  12. Your Coat is devine - I love the simplicity of it but the bold colour adds a presence. Not long to go now :-)

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